Without your board, you’re lost
It’s merciless and it’s inexhaustible forward thrust
Break you like a thin match under the weight of thousands tons
Pushing you to the ground
Into the dark and timeless depth
Taking your breath and so your life
Surrender you to where you came from once
But being prepared
You cut the destructive shape
Beating this massive power
Becoming familiar with this inscrutable empire of endless streams
Embracing the entire motion and energy of your desired opponent
Your beloved friend
Experiencing extraordinary rushes of adrenalin through your body
You’ll go out as a different person
- John Shore -
A well-balanced warrior of the sea
Fought the strongest beast ever existed
Being the most happiest and exhausted person, at the same time
Having stunning experiences behind you
Just seconds ago
Every day
Maroubra
Monday, 6 October 2008
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